6HEAD restaurant review: Elizabeth Quay’s new ‘elevated steakhouse’ has more than meats the eye

Ladies and gentlemen, can I please have your attention? I’ve just been handed an urgent news story. I need all of you to stop what you’re doing and listen. 6HEAD, the self-proclaimed “elevated steakhouse” in Elizabeth Quay, is very, very good. So good it may single-handedly bring back the long Friday lunch. And, in contrast to recent reports, while it’s hardly cheap and cheerful, you don’t have to smell of rich mahogany and have many leather-bound books to be able to afford to eat at the latest Perth restaurant from burgeoning Sydney-based hospitality group Seagrass. However, having deep pockets — or eating at the largesse of someone else’s — will open up the full menu of dry-aged and heavily marbled steaks at 6HEAD, the top dog in the protein-driven Seagrass stable. Seagrass is also home to The Meat and Wine Co., Ribs and Burgers, Hunter & Barrel, and Italian Street Kitchen. Founded by South African restaurateur Bradley Michael, Seagrass opened the first 6HEAD in Sydney’s The Rocks tourist area five years ago. The name refers to the fact the First Fleet had six head of Black Cape cattle onboard when it hit Sydney Cove in 1788. Despite the anachronistic and Sydney-centric name, Seagrass decided Perth was ideal for 6HEAD’s second outpost. All right, let’s dive into our recent Friday lunch at the 180-seat diner. CANNONBALL! The first hint at the potential expense of this joint is the fact if you don’t show up for your booking, you’ll be charged $50 per person. Groups of eight or more attract a 10 per cent surcharge. Arriving in person at the restaurant nestled on the ground floor of the Chevron building (next to Lantern on the Quay) elicits a warmer welcome. The long dining room is impressive, and imposingly masculine — all earth tones, with a massive curtain emblazoned with images of bulls half-raised to expose the kitchen where head chef Shane Middleton (ex-Fleur at the Royal and Clarke’s of North Beach) and his team calmly prepare meals. The floor staff are lovely, with no signs of the starch usually present at fine diners. The wine list is on a tablet, but you still order through a human. You can drain a bottle of Grange for $2600, and the three bubbles by the glass are on the expensive side, but beyond that, the 30 wines by the glass are a reasonably priced roster from down the road and around Europe. Similarly, you don’t need to be Twiggy or Gina to eat at 6HEAD. The entrees range from a slightly oily but super-tender calamari for $21 and the utterly brilliant yellowfin tuna from Fremantle for $29, to a pair of Karubi skewers for $69. The latter involved Japanese-style thinly sliced and grilled beef from the acclaimed Mayura Station in South Australia, dressed in garlic creme fraiche, harissa, garlic oil and Avruga caviar. While a highly marbled cut, the meat was slightly chewy and had flavour for days — superb. But for less than half of the price, the yellowfin tuna is a must-have dish. The seared fish was still raw in the middle, with umami flavours from the soy and sesame dressing that give way for sharp heat from chilli yoghurt and shishito peppers. Pickled chestnut mushrooms and caviar come along for the ride. Middleton marvels with this plate, which offers a flavour explosion where spice complements but never overpowers the world-class tuna caught off our coast. 6HEAD offers a modern ethos, yet has a traditional heart. Wines are poured at the table. The napery is linen. Side plates for the steak arrive hot. And lifting a steak knife feels a bit like how King Arthur would’ve felt pulling Excalibur from the stone. On this Friday, blokes filled most of the banquettes, many having clocked off for a late lunch, and most sticking by Phil Collins’ credo: No Jacket Required. Some tore into tomahawks as though they’d caught the mammoth themselves. There is a raw bar full of east coast oysters ($46 for half-a-dozen, $86 for a dozen) and Japanese-style scallops, and caviar for $90-$165 per 10g. But, like the T-shirt brigade, we were here for a steak — just perhaps something less daunting than Fred Flintstone’s usual. While there was a very tasty-sounding (and reasonably priced) Wagyu rump from Margaret River in the dry-ager, we went for a 450-day grain-fed Wagyu rump from Mayura Station ($72). I’d heard a story the award-winning beef producer feeds the cattle sweets from the nearby Allen’s Lollies factory to enhance the marbling during its final 70-90 days. Don’t ask me how they open the packets. Our 300g steak arrived perfectly charred on the outside and rare inside, with a large pot of “three pepper” sauce loaded with pink, black and green peppercorns. A slice of this beef dunked in the pepper sauce was possibly the best steak I’ve ever had. Each steak comes with a choice of complementary sides — chips or salad. We went for the baby gem salad with green goddess dressing, herbs and pickle brine ($16 without a steak). Very herbaceous with a lift from the brine. We also got the brussels sprouts (charred, spicy and sweet thanks to the burnt butter, fermented chilli and honey glaze, $19) and 6HEAD mac and cheese (penne in a creamy, spinach-loaded sauce, $22) to complete an incredible main course. Out of three options, we shared the “Cherie” for dessert. It was a baked cherry and almond clafoutis pudding (perhaps more upside-down cake) with tart cherry coulis and vanilla ice-cream ($18). Myra washed this down with a port. A couple could share the incredible tuna and a $70 steak with two sides (one free) and “only” spend around $120 on lunch (plus drinks). Hardly a cheap meal but even our full lunch didn’t end with my bank cancelling my credit card. 6HEAD Perth Shop 1, One the Esplanade, Perth OPEN Sunday-Thursday, midday-10pm. Friday-Saturday, midday-10.30pm. CONTACT 6163 8888, 6head.com.au BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT Push the boat out with caviar, oysters and a huge steak, plus a fancy bottle of wine or two, or reel it in to a few choice dishes — 6HEAD doesn’t have to break your budget. Great, if blokey, room. Service excellent. Look out, Rockpool. 17.5/20

6HEAD restaurant review: Elizabeth Quay’s new ‘elevated steakhouse’ has more than meats the eye

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