The New York Times recipe: Finding balance in a summer side with spicy cucumbers with yoghurt, lemon and herbs

The most memorable summer meals don’t hinge on a single perfect dish. Instead, it is the interplay of multiple plates and platters — like a great mezze — that transforms them into an occasion. And a well-executed simple side is as critical to the whole menu as anything that may have taken hours to compose.

This salad combines two components, crisp cucumbers and creamy yoghurt dressing, to lend a cooling counterpoint to any summer menu.

To make, toss bite-size pieces of cucumber with a spiced oil that has been warmed just enough to make the coriander, cumin and red-pepper flakes bloom. Splash in a little vinegar, then set aside in the refrigerator to pick up the spices’ flavours. To a thick, full-fat yoghurt or labneh, toss in a series of herbs: cucumber and dill or cucumber and mint? Add both, and some parsley and lemon zest. Each element folds into the others without overpowering the whole.

In the finished dish, the cold cucumbers retain their freshness and carry a little heat as well as earthy notes from the other spices. The lemon and herbs in the yoghurt offer subtleties of their own while tempering the cucumber marinade’s warmth. A satisfying contrast of textures awaits you on the plate as the crisp cucumbers sink into the smooth, tangy yoghurt. It is this balance that helps the dish stand on its own as a snack or a simple salad.

This cold-marinated cucumber salad pairs well with sizzling kebabs right off the grill, smoky glazed chicken thighs with a good amount of char or sweet corn dripping with butter. It also pairs nicely with a seltzer and lime, a gin and tonic or a chilled riesling. With the right balance of competing and complementary flavours, this salad is the right accompaniment to the grilled meats or vegetables of summer, whether it is an elaborate dinner or a leisurely alfresco lunch.

Recipe: Spicy Cucumbers with Yoghurt, Lemon and Herbs

680g Lebanese cucumbers (about 8), ends trimmed and quartered lengthwise into spears, then crosswise into 5cm pieces

1 tsp salt flakes, plus more to taste

¼ cup grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, such as canola

1 tsp ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 tsp red-pepper flakes

2 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced

2 tsp apple cider vinegar

1 cup full-fat Greek yoghurt

½ cup mint leaves, thinly sliced

¼ cup dill, chopped

¼ cup parsley leaves and tender stems, chopped

1 lemon

2 tbsp olive oil

black pepper

¼ cup pine nuts (optional)

Preparation

Step 1 Toss the cucumber pieces with 1 tsp salt and set in a colander in the sink to drain.

Step 2 In a small pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the coriander and cumin, and toast until fragrant, stirring to avoid scorching, about 1 minute. Remove oil from heat, add red-pepper flakes and allow to cool.

Step 3 In a medium bowl, toss the salted cucumber pieces with the spring onion, spiced oil and apple cider vinegar. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 15 minutes or overnight while you prepare the yoghurt.

Step 4 In a small bowl, combine the yoghurt, half of the herbs (mint, dill and parsley), zest and juice of the lemon and the olive oil. Stir to incorporate, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Step 5 Spread the yoghurt mixture on a plate or the bottom of a shallow bowl. Using a slotted spoon to drain the cucumbers and spring onion of excess liquid, evenly place the cucumbers and spring onion on top of the yoghurt. Finish with the remaining chopped herbs and pine nuts (if using), and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Total time: 30 minutes

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