One of the biggest mistakes we make in the garden is assuming the conditions are the same everywhere. They’re not. Two plants growing only a few metres apart can experience completely different amounts of sun, heat, wind and moisture, which is why one can thrive while the other struggles. Understanding these little pockets, or microclimates, is one of the easiest ways to make better plant choices.

Start with the sun. Don’t just think in terms of sun or shade; pay attention to when the sun arrives. Morning sun is very different to a blast of western afternoon sun, particularly through a hot summer. A plant that copes happily with four hours of morning light may scorch if those same four hours arrive late in the day.

Spend some time watching how light moves through your garden and remember that it changes through the seasons. A spot that is shaded in winter can be exposed to intense summer sun, while neighbouring trees and buildings can alter conditions as the year progresses.

Walls can change things again. A brick wall facing north or west absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back into the garden, creating one of the hottest positions on the property. That can be tough for some plants but perfect for others that enjoy heat, so the aim is not always to fix the condition but to recognise it and plant accordingly.

Wind is another major influence, particularly in Perth and coastal gardens. Walk around on a windy day and you’ll quickly find protected pockets as well as areas that behave like wind tunnels. Side passages are classic examples. Wind gets squeezed between the house and boundary fence, drying plants out faster and damaging soft or large foliage. In these spots, I prefer tougher plants such as westringia, ornamental grasses and many coastal natives rather than continually replacing plants that were never suited to the position.

Planting can also help filter wind. A hedge or layered screen that allows some air to pass through can soften its force, while a completely solid barrier can create turbulence on the other side.

Then there are protected corners. These are the spots beside a wall, hedge or building where the wind disappears and conditions suddenly feel warmer and calmer. They can be perfect for more delicate plants or larger foliage that would become shredded in an exposed position.

Shade needs to be read just as carefully because not all shade is equal. Bright shade beneath a pergola is very different to the dry shade beneath an established tree. Under a tree, the canopy intercepts rainfall while the roots compete for available moisture and nutrients, so a plant labelled “shade tolerant” may still struggle.

If you’re planting beneath established trees, choose plants that can cope with both low light and root competition, and be prepared to water them consistently while they establish.

Moisture can vary dramatically too. Low areas may stay damp after rain, while raised beds, sandy banks and areas beside hot paving can dry out quickly. Perth’s sandy soils make this even more noticeable, particularly where the soil has become water-repellent.

After decent rain or irrigation, go outside and look at what actually happens. Where does water collect? Where does it run off? Which areas are still damp the next day and which already feel dry? Those observations will tell you far more than a plant label ever can.

I also pay attention to what is already growing well. Existing plants are some of the best indicators you have. If something is thriving in a particular corner, look at the conditions around it before assuming it will perform just as well somewhere else. Paving can reflect heat, fences can create shade, trees can block rainfall and neighbouring buildings can change how much sun an area receives. All of these small things add up.

You don’t need any special equipment to understand your garden’s microclimates. Spend time outside in the morning, in the middle of the day and in the late afternoon. Feel where the heat is coming from, notice where the wind drops away and check which parts of the soil dry first.