Charlie Albone: A hedge done right will be the backbone of many a garden and can thrive if done right

I’m currently building a new garden at my house and over the weekend planted a lilly pilly called Backyard Bliss as a boundary hedge in my front garden. It’s given me screening from the busy road and created a private oasis within the space. A hedge done right becomes the backbone of a garden — shaping space, creating rhythm and bringing a sense of order. Done wrong, it can mean years of frustration, gaps and uneven growth. Let’s start with the soil. In Perth, that means dealing with sand — and lots of it. Sand is great for drainage but hopeless at holding nutrients or moisture — both of which young hedges desperately need. The best thing you can do is invest time in preparation before planting. Always dig a continuous trench rather than individual holes. Think of it as a long trough that allows the roots to spread evenly and connect underground, encouraging the plants to grow as one rather than as individuals. Into the backfill, mix organic matter such as compost and well-rotted manure. If the soil is very sandy, add bentonite clay to help bind it together. Include a granular wetting agent and blood and bone fertiliser to ensure the plants get the water and nutrients they need to grow well. Mixing these into the backfill ensures an even spread, helping the plants establish and thrive with vigour. When it comes to planting, spacing is everything. The temptation is to crowd plants for an instant hedge, but try to resist. Overcrowding leads to competition for nutrients, meaning more feeding and watering in the long run. For most medium hedges, space each plant about 60–80 centimetres apart. For larger shrubs such as viburnums or lilly pillies, extend that to one to 1.2 metres. You can space plants further apart to save on costs, but you’ll wait longer for the hedge to fill in. Always lay out the plants on the ground first, still in their pots, to check spacing before committing. Once you’re happy with the layout, tease the roots gently before planting — this encourages them to spread into the improved soil rather than continue circling in the pot shape. Backfill the trench and avoid compacting too firmly — you want the soil light enough for new roots to move through easily. The first watering is critical — it settles the soil and brings it into contact with the roots. You may need to reassess the soil level after the first soak as it can drop. After that, watering becomes the make-or-break factor for success. Shallow, frequent watering encourages surface roots that dry quickly; deep roots are what you want. In the first few weeks, give a deep soak every two or three days, depending on the weather, using a drip line or weeper hose to deliver water slowly along the hedge. After the first month, reduce to once a week, always preferring a long drink over a daily splash. Mulching after planting is essential. Wait until after the first soaking, as the soil may need topping up. Hedges love a layer of chunky mulch — it keeps the soil cool, locks in moisture and suppresses weeds. Just leave a small gap around each stem to avoid rot at the base. Once your hedge is in, resist the urge to reach for the trimmer too soon. Give it time to establish and put on root growth before pruning, as early trimming pushes it into leaf growth instead. The goal is to build thickness from the base up — never let it get leggy early on, or you’ll be chasing density for years. Trim about 10 per cent lower than your desired height and shape to allow for regrowth. Unlike watering, pruning little and often will produce the thickest, healthiest hedge.